Dogs are impulsive creatures. They have no reason not to be. Yet much of the behavior of a well-mannered dog, is down to impulse control.
The ability to choose one course of behavior over another.
To pick the actions preferred by you
Over the actions he would clearly rather choose for himself.
Why impulse control is important for dogs
Many aspects of a dog’s natural behavior are not appropriate in the human world. Particularly in our homes.
So the ability to suppress his own urges to behave inappropriately in certain situations, is a vital part of being a good canine citizen.
If he is going to ‘fit in’ to our human world, your dog needs to resist the urge to rush through doors, dash between people’s legs or grab anything he fancies.
He needs to control his desire to pee on your auntie’s persian rug, steal crisps from toddlers or strangle your neighbour’s cat.
If we want our dogs to be welcome guests and to be safe in our society, they need to learn some impulse control. And the sooner, the better.
What does impulse control look like?
Achieving a well mannered dog is partly a case of teaching him how to respond to our cues and signals. To sit when we say sit, to come when we whistle etc.
And of course, how to continue obeying our cues even when there are exciting alternatives on offer.
But much of the time, the dog needs to know what to do without being constantly under instruction.
He needs to know how to behave in different everyday situations. Without you breathing down his neck all day. He needs a set of ‘default behaviors’. Behaviors he chooses in certain situations, even though he’d prefer to be doing something else.
Teaching default behaviors
When we talk about default behavior, we are talking about a behavior that a dog reverts to in a particular context.
This ability to respond to context can be taught by ensuring the dog does not get rewarded for the ‘wrong behavior’ and ensuring that he does get rewarded for the behavior you want.
It’s a case of teaching the dog that certain specific preferred behaviors are always required in a specific context – such as waiting for permission before he takes food from your hand.
Or sitting to greet visitors. Or lying on his mat when he is let into the dining room.
Dogs need different behavior for different situations
In fact much of what we consider appropriate behavior for a dog, depends on context. On the location or environment your dog is in at that present moment.
Whilst it is fine for your dog to chase his tail in the garden, it isn’t fine to do it under your coffee table.
And whilst it is ok to shake his toys until the stuffing falls out, it isn’t ok to do the same to your favourite cushions.
So how do we teach a dog these default behaviors, how do we rein in his urge to be wildly inappropriate in our living room, or horribly rude to our visitors?
How do we teach impulse control to a dog?
There are many ways to be ‘inappropriate’ in any one context.
This is why teaching your dog ‘not to do’ a thing, stealing cushions for example, is not always the best option.
He may simply choose another inappropriate alternative, such as rolling around on his back in your favourite and most fragile antique chair.
Don’t do that
When we teach a dog ‘not to do’ something, we stop the unwanted behavior using punishment. Yet punishing your dog’s actions may inhibit those behaviors in all contexts, not just in the context we object to.
A good example of this is the owner that catches their puppy in the act of peeing on the hearth rug. He punishes the puppy in a very timely and accurate way using a gruff voice and a little shake.
He then spends the next month trying to persuade the puppy to wee in the garden and wonders why the puppy will only relieve himself outdoors in front of his wife.
Do this!
To teach appropriate behavior and curbing of impulses, especially indoors, we are often best served by teaching that specific behaviors apply to specific contexts.
A ‘do this’ approach, rather than ‘don’t do that’. ‘Go here’, rather then ‘don’t go there’.
The dog learns the appropriate behavior for that situation. And this means that we can use rewards to reinforce the right behavior, rather than punishment with its downsides, to diminish what we don’t want.
Helping dogs cope with distractions
How easy it is for your dog to control his impulses will also depend on what else is going on around him.
Sitting still in the kitchen may not be too much of an ask, but sitting still on the sidelines of your son’s football match may require more impulse control than your ball-crazy dog has right now.
Teaching simple behaviors in a very controlled environment, then gradually getting your dog accustomed to carrying out these behaviors in more distracting environments is the way to go.
But you will need to go slowly and build up the level of distraction gently.
Teach your dog default behaviors
Teach your dog some great ‘default’ behaviors. Actions he can fall back on in common everyday situations.
For example, you can teach your dog to lie on this mat (instead of on the sofa) when you come into the living room.
He can learn that “You can have your lead put, or be stroked by Granny, when you sit still. “
It’s a case of teaching “This is what you can do” rather than “This is what you can’t”.
If you think about it, teaching a dog ‘not’ to do a thing, is a far more vague approach to training, than teaching him exactly what he should do in that particular circumstance.
Now let’s look at an example of a very simple impulse control exercise based on teaching a default behavior.
Impulse control exercise
The context in which you can practice this exercise is anytime your dog wants to go through a door or gate that is closed until you open it.
This can be internal doors between rooms in your house, external doors into your yard or garden, or gates leading out of your yard.
If the gate leads to a potentially unsafe environment, you’ll need the dog on a long leash until he has mastered this skill
1 Preparing for the exercise
In this exercise, you will use the word ‘yes’ as an event marker. The event marker let’s the dog know he just succeeded in looking at your face, and must be followed by his reward.
His reward is delivered when you open the door.
Your job is to immediately say ‘Yes!’ when he looks at your face, and to immediately open the door. He will still barge through at this point. Don’t worry about that.
When you first start this exercise most dogs are fixated on the door itself, nose glued to the edge of the door at the point where they expect to barge through.
2 Getting that first glance
To begin with, your dog probably won’t look at you at all. You’ll need to attract his attention with a noise. Don’t say his name, just make a kissy noise with your mouth. And be ready.
As soon as he looks up at you, say YES and open that door.
Dogs love going in and out of doorways so you’ll have lots of opportunities to practice this every day
3 Letting the dog choose to look at you
After a few times of attracting your dog’s attention, start to wait him out. Put your hand on the door handle and wait.
Don’t give the kissy sound straight away, hold on a few seconds, he’ll soon start looking up at you to get you to open the door, without you needing to do anything.
4 A lingering look!
Now you are going to ask the dog for a longer look. No rushed glances here. A good full on intelligent communicating look.
Start by asking for two seconds. Wait for him to look at you and say ” one thousand, two thousand” in your head. Say yes when he holds your gaze for two seconds, and immediately open the door.
Now build up to a good four second gaze, and once you have this, you are ready to move on.
The next step is to begin to open the door before you say ‘yes’ and without the dog barging.
5 Opening the door
To begin with you are just going to put your hand on the door and turn the handle slightly. Don’t actually release the door. The dog may push or barge at the door at this point. Just hold your hand still, don’t open it and wait for that full on look.
When he looks up at you say ‘yes’ and open the door.
Now build up in stages, opening the door just a crack initially, so he can’t pass through the gap.
If he struggles at all with this, have him on a leash, so that as the gap in the door get’s wider, and he loses control, he can’t reward himself by rushing through it.
Remember that rewards reinforce behaviors
Once your dog has gained some control you’ll be able to do this with the leash trailing and eventually without it on at all.
Remember that passing through the door is rewarding for the dog and reinforces the behavior that preceded it.
If looking at you, instead of pushing at the door is what precedes the door opening, he will learn to substitute this controlled behavior for his previous impulsive one.
Teaching other impulse control skills
Many dogs reach adulthood with very poor impulse control.
But if you have a three year old hooligan, don’t panic. It is never to late to start teaching your dog how to control himself.
Just decide what you want a dog to do in a given situation. Often it will be a simple behavior like ‘sit’. Prevent him accessing a reward unless he offers you the behavior you want.
And then mark and reward him each time he gets it right.
Teaching your dog to sit or at least to look at you whenever he wants something is a great way to improve general behavior.
Is your dog impulsive? Could he do with a bit more self control? Share his exploits in the comments box below
And don’t forget, if you need some support with training your dog, drop into my forum! It’s fun, free, and friendly.
Skyler says
My 5 month old shelter dog, boxer mix with unknown, doesn’t not seem interested in going outside. His potty training is going fine but other than that he has no interest in being outside. It’s not a problem of weather as it was 60 degrees and partly cloudy. It could be a problem of a new environment and he needs to get used to his family but then you would think being outside would be his desire. Oh and thank you so much for this website I’ve always felt there has to be another way to train animals other than beating the fear of peeing inside into him. Teach him to do desired actions and don’t teach them to not do undesirable actions.
Kelly Zaky says
Our one year old catahoulah mix is doing very well learning commands and impulse control. The one area he is struggling with is barking at us fand at people who come into our home; it seems to be attention seeking because he is really a love.
I would love some pointers on how to minimize the barking.
Thanks!
Mahaut says
My dog his now 3 years old. he grew up in an environment with a lot of people always coming in and out of the house and used to be extremly friendly (or living his own life). When he was about 2 years old we moved country, from a house with garden to city house, from hot to cold weather and many other things, but the worst is that I had to leave without him for 6 months to yet another country. Now I have him back with me in this third country, and he is completely fine and friendly as he was before with me, but he growls and sometimes tries to bite everybody else. It seems several days with a new person being around and completely ignoring him is the only way to gain his trust (which is something not all visitors have time for). How could I train my dog to regain confidence in humains and not be anxious around them?
Karen Sullivan says
We are experiencing some new behaviors in our Yorkshire Terrier who is 6 years old. My brother just passed away and we have been watching his young boys while his wife travels for work. The boys sleep in our guest room and our dog insists to sleep with them and guards them. When I go to their room to tuck them in he growls at me and even tries to bite me protecting the boys. He won’t leave the room until they get up in the morning to come downstairs. Any advice on how we can have him feel more at ease and not have to be their constant guard?
Bridget M. says
Rescued an approx. 1 yr old male neutered dog about 2 mos ago. Got his DNA tested and he is about 75% Belgian Malinois, and he weighs about 25#s. My issue is that everyday he bites/nips my arms, legs, feet and humps me or he is acting like a “puppy” grabbing shoes, plants. This can last for about an hour +/-. I know he is a herding breed so he goes to doggie day care 3x’s a week and the other 2 days he is crated with a someone that comes 2x’s a day and walks him, then I walk him before/after work. Then at times he is super sweet and loving. The bad behavior is hard to handle. I need training help to fix this fast!
Lucy says
Hi Bridget, You might find this helpful – https://thehappypuppysite.com/biting-puppy/
Karin Day says
Is there a forum for wire haired jr terrier mixes? Hes a med energy dog that gets anxious out and about screaming if taken somewhere new or anxious left at home.
patricia says
My 2 yr old terrier has a melt down when are out walking g and we come upon another dog..he totally looses it I have to physically restrain him. Help
Robbie says
I am beginning clicker training. It has helped so many dogs. Google it and watch some videos. It just may be your answer. ?
Coral Dolan says
I have a 2yr old boxer who cannot seem to grasp the concept of jumping all over people when they are close. At home or out, after he has sat quietly for a pat or not! Please help.
Coral Dolan says
That was NOT jumping all over people! sorry.
Kathryn says
This is a great article! The impulse I would like my Labrador to control is bounding over to people having picnics in the park and stealing their food. He is great off lead until picnic season happens.
Pippa says
Hi Kathryn, join our labrador forum for help with your training. And good luck . 🙂
Mike says
My 6 month old rottie bitch is causing a real problem .She is fine when not in the living room but as soon as she comes into the room she barks or jumps on me sometimes nipping . I remove her to another room for a short time and let her back but this isn’t working . Any ideas.
Marie says
My 22 month old border collie doesn’t listen to me when she gets over aroused. Everything will be fine until swallows start circling near by. Or a ball chasing dog arrives at the park or beach. She goes into herding mode and unless I have her on a long line I can not regain her focus. I have been working on impulse control consistently for over 12 months in the house, yard, car and small parks with good progress and concentration. However in a large open space these instincts rein supreme. Leash reactivity is also a problem. To avoid this problem I create distance with other dogs without seeming obvious and reward calmness and focus on me. Can you give me some advice?
Emily says
My sons dog is 6 months old and she jumps up and bits visitors
Jo Massey says
I didnt realise my 2 year old Irish Setter had impulse control issues for quite a while. He screams and lunges at some vehicles and trailers as he is not allowed to chase them of course so I am going to work on these impulse control exercises until he is able to eventually (hopefully) ignore his nemesis – ‘rattling trailers’. Any suggestions you can give me will be greatly appreciated as I realise it will take a while and several steps.
Fiona says
Hi Jo, why don’t you come by the forum where there are loads of experienced dog owners ready to help (and, although it’s The Labrador Forum, there are plenty of members with other breeds, too, so don’t worry about that!).
http://www.thelabradorforum.com